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The opposite side is then cut. Remember that the boat cuts begin inside the border lines, and are cut toward the tip, and the beveling gives the leaves character and a raised appearance. |
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| The nick cuts are made by driving a 120° graver in at a high angle to produce a short, fat triangular cut. If the boat cuts are not sufficiently deep, the nick cuts will produce burs and a messy appearance. Like the boat cuts, I cut one side first and then the opposite side. |
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| The boats and nicks are done, and now the border is ready for shading. Note that the nicks are evenly spaced with the lowest set about even with the tip of the next leaf below. |
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| In order to keep my shade cuts parellel with the borders, I cut the center line first and then shade one side and then the other. I shade through the lowest set of nick cuts. |
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The shading cuts start as a micro-thin hairline and get progressively wider and deeper as they approach the leaf below. They also converge as they get wider, and this creates a rich, dark seperation between the leaves, adding to the 3-dimensional effect of the leaves laying on top of one another.
All work done with a 120° graver and the GRS 901 and Monarch handpieces (Monarch used for shading) and the GraverMach. |
